Iceland Day 5: Glacier Hike

After Foss á Síðu, it was onwards to the glacier wonderland of Skaftafell for some glacier hiking. Skaftafell is part of  Vatnajökull National Park, named after the massive Vatnajökull ice cap, the largest icecap in Iceland as well as in Europe. Skaftafell is located at the southern portion of the ice cap. Other than glaciers, it is also known for the iconic Svartifoss waterfall.



As we approach the Skaftafell area, the huge glaciers flowing out from the Vatnajökull ice cap started to come into view. Along the way, we passed by several single lane bridges that cut across the many streams of the Vatnajökull ice cap floodplain. This glacial flood plain is named Skeiðarársandur (Sandur meaning outwash plain). We had to keep a look out for oncoming traffic that was already on the bridge, so that we know when to pull over and wait.

Driving across one of the many single lane bridges in the area. Some of the bridges are quite long, so it gets a bit unnerving as there is this fear that you might come face to face with oncoming traffic.

We stopped by a scenic point to soak in the view of the 2 glaciers that flow into the Skaftafell area: Skaftafellsjökull and Svínafellsjökull. Low hanging clouds hover over the southern end of the Vatnajökull ice cap, the source of the glaciers.

An information board about the great flood/Jökulhlaup of 1996 that washed away part of the Ring Road.

The information board about Skeiðarársandur reminded us just how fragile the area is due to volcanic activity. In 1996, the Grímsvötn volcano located in the Vatnajökull ice cap erupted, triggering a huge glacial flood, called a Jökulhlaup. The flood washed away part of the Icelandic Ring Road around Skeiðarársandur. I cannot imagine how bummed out tourists to the east of Skeiðarársandur must have felt, since the Ring Road is the only road that connects the major tourist spots in Iceland.

Getting closer to Skafafell. The glaciers begin to loom large.

To the right is Svínafellsjökull. You can see a small mini bus driving past it at the bottom.

To the left is the larger Skaftafellsjökull. It's as though the Ring Road just disappears into the glacier.

Our main purpose at Skaftafell that day was to embark on our glacier hiking adventure! We booked the  2pm guided hike "Blue Ice Experience" from Icelandic Mountain Guides. It cost 8,900 ISK per person.

Blue Ice Experience: http://www.mountainguides.is/day-tours/glacier-tours/from-skaftafell/blue-ice-experience/ 

We met at the sales lodge at Skaftafell National Park visitor center. There, the guides helped us with picking out on our crampons that we will be wearing under our shoes. Crampons provide the necessary grip to walk safely on glaciers. We were also each provided with an axe that helps with balance and going up steep slopes. After that, we boarded their mini bus for a bumpy ride to the Svínafellsjökull glacier trail head.

Picking out crampons at the sales lodge.

At the glacier trail head, we first had a short briefing before heading out to the ice. Turns out, our guide was originally from Scotland. After learning how to put on crampons, we followed our guide to this training ground area. There, we practiced going up and down slopes. It was a bright sunny day, and I was very glad I brought along my sunglasses. (I tried skiing without sunglasses once, and it was very unpleasant). Even though we were walking on a huge body of ice, I started sweating after a short hike. Most likely a combination of sunlight and physical activity.

Briefing before walking on the glacier.

There were 2 other groups on the glacier too.

First, we learned how to hike up a slope. We had to hold the axe in a certain way for safety reasons.

Learning how to hike down. Body upright, weight on the ball of the feet.

Our guide then brought us around the glacier, showing us cool glacier formations as well as explaining some glacier geology. Obviously from the picture, the glacier that we hiked on wasn't exactly the picturesque, pristine blue ice glaciers are known for. But that's normal for hikes during summer and fall, when there isn't much fresh snowfall. Our guide showed us some deep crevices and a small moulin, a glacial hole. To show us how deep the moulin was, he used his axe to carve up a pile of ice, and then kicked it into the hole. We could all hear the ice tumble down and wasn't until a good 4-5 seconds later that we heard a loud splash. That is not a hole you want to drop into.

We took turns taking pictures next to the moulin.

Our guide checking out some crevices. The terrain reminded me of the icy planet scene in Interstellar. (But that's because the scene was indeed shot near here, probably higher up at the Vatnajökull ice cap).

He sprinted up the steep slope in mere seconds.

Before hiking back to the trail head, we were brought to a scenic spot on the glacier for our photo op with the peaks around the glacier. Overall, a glacier hike is a definite must do if you are around the Skaftafell area. I definitely felt safe being part of a group lead by an experienced and knowledgeable guide.

One last group photo op on the glacier before hiking back to the trail head.

Waterfall taking on the colors of the rainbow.

After the hike, we drove further east to Höfn where we stayed for the next two nights.


We stayed at the Hof 1 Hotel: http://hof1.is/hof1hote/. Once again, the scenery around the hotel was ridiculously amazing. The setting was similar to the Lambafell Hotel we stayed at near Skogafoss. Hof 1 hotel is perched on a slope, with green hills behind it, and the vast expanse of the flood plains and the southern coast in front of it. The day continued to be blessed with clear skies and brilliant sunshine. We made the most of it by taking pictures around the hotel and just soaking in the sunshine.

Middle of nowhere hotels in Iceland done it again! The scenery around the Hof 1 hotel is just absolutely breathtaking.

Checking out sheep on the farm land right next to the hotel.

Two thumbs up for Icelandic sheep! And the surrounding scenery.

Soaking in the amazing scenery and the clear blue sky. Felt itchy after that unfortunately.

More of the amazing scenery near Hof 1 Hotel.

We had a quick rest before continuing our amazing day into a magical night. The best was yet to come!